Suwannee River Rules County! 30 Fantastic Activities
Suwanneeprobably comes from an Indian word, “Sawani,” meaning “echo river.” Since theSuwannee River creates the northern, southern, and western borders, the countyis almost an island! It is actually in the shapeof half a heart (aawwww…) Even more water flows through Suwannee County; boththe Ichetucknee River and the Santa Fe River make their way through the county.
SuwanneeCounty was officially formed in 1858.
1. AHistoric Town
Live Oak, the county seat, embraces the past.The old buildings haven’t been demolished to make way for more modernstructures. Instead, the buildings have been repurposed. The Chamber ofCommerce is found in the 1908 Italianate-style City Hall, Police and FireDepartment, and jail—the two jail cells are intact. The center tower was usedas a fire lookout.
The Live Oak Union Depot was built in 1909and moved in 1985 when threatened with demolition. That passenger depot is nowused for meeting space and displays of historical photographs and used as asatellite campus by North Florida College. Next door, the Freight Stationhouses a beautiful museum. Plan on a couple of hours learning about the historyof Live Oak and Suwannee County.
The Downtown Heritage Trail map of the Historic BusinessDistrict will guide youthrough a three-block area. Most of the town’s oldest structures (built before1925) are located in this area. Many are listed on the National Register ofHistoric Places, and some are listed on the FloridaHeritage Trail. One home wasordered from the Sears-Roebuck catalog, arrived by rail, and was constructed bythe homeowner.
The few sites outside this area can bereached by car. There are 31 locations marked on the map, and the first 17 arean easy walk. Time it right, and you’ll be passing by one of the great downtowneateries just before the lunch rush!
2. Stubborn SouthernDetermination
One of those historic houses (built 1915)deserves its own paragraph. In a testament to his determination to win anargument with the government, homeowner R. P. Hopkins had a bedroom added for aparticular reason (no, not that!) Mr. Hopkins was told he could not run forCity Council because his house was not within city limits. He added a bedroomon the north side of the house, placing it squarely inside the city limits! Genius!
3. Piece Together a Quilt
Live Oak has Quilt Squares, like the ones you see on barns throughout the South, on businesses in town, and even making their way onto private residences. The trail has its own Facebook page! You can download a map for the Live Oak Quilt Trail, but it is really more fun to make a scavenger hunt of it! At last count, there were 50 squares on display. At the Suwannee County Tourist Development Department, Charissa told me that local merchants who want a square are matched up with a Live Oak Artists Guild member who constructs and paints the customized square. When the quilt is completed, it is installed on the exterior wall of the business.
4. Got Gas?
I know you’re thinking, “Great? You’re goingto tell me where to buy gas??” Well, kinda-sorta. I’m going to tell you whereto spend an hour or two getting gas! *smile*
You may have guessed this isn’t yourrun-of-the-mill gas station or even a fancy truck stop. The only way todescribe the Busy Bee Travel Plaza is an—experience! Honestly, when have you ever bought gas, chargedyour phone (for free), watched a ball game (IN the potty), had a sit-downburger lunch, bought a birthday gift for your favorite aunt (shhh…don’t tellAunt Shelby!), and left with a box of 16 kinds of handmade fudge?My hand is raised—is yours? Since it is a travel plaza, you could do a load oflaundry and have a shower too.
I hear that the people traveling on I-10 evenbypass the interstate rest stop just to visit the Busy Bee. What a greatdecision! After all, it has been nominated several years as one of TruckerPath’s “Stop of the Year.”
5. Explore A Home andFamily’s History
The Crapps family bought Heritage Park &Gardens in 1951 andraised ten children there. In 1954 a fire tragically destroyed the home. Two ofthe boys smelled smoke and alerted their father. Thankfully, the children werelowered to the ground from the master bedroom. When Mr. Crapps rebuilt thehome, he added innovative features to make the house nearly fireproof, anadvanced concept 70 years ago. The outside walls are solid brick; interiorwalls, floors, and beams were structural steel and concrete.
The kitchen was state-of-the-art, and sincemost fires in homes start in the kitchen, Mr. Crapps, understandably paranoid,tiled the walls and ceiling for fire protection. He had a steel door installedbetween the kitchen and the rest of the house, operated automatically by a heatsensor.
Mr. Crapps had a teacher’s mind; the deskchair in his home office has a bullet hole in it. A visitor thought a gun wasunloaded and discharged it. The only casualty was Mr. Crapps’ chair. He refusedto repair the chair and instead left it to remind the children of how dangerousa gun can be—even an “unloaded” one!
Today, the house and grounds are availablefor meetings, events, and weddings. Tours can be scheduled in advance; justgive them a call.
6. Kiss a Tiger!
Maybe kissing a tiger isn’t for everybody.Still, after being behind the scenes at Mystic Jungle, I knew he deserved akiss! I watched Spike play with the handlers and “huff” at me countless times(huffing is a good thing). It is easy to forget he is a wild catand not a friend’s house kitty. He was born in captivity and raised in therescuer’s home.
Each animal at the center has a differentstory, like the parrot taught by his former owner to say inappropriate thingslike, “Grandpa is an ***!” Unfortunately, it’s a hard habit to “untrain,” andhe is a friendly, easy-to-handle bird who could visit schools—but what wouldthe teacher think!
Mystic Jungle is a wildlife sanctuary andeducational center. The animals are well cared for and well-loved. There isnone of the anxious pacing you see at many facilities and zoos. One reason forthis is there is a limitation on the number of tours each week. So be sure tocall and reserve your time to visit.
The owner told me a touching story. Duringthe height of Covid, when visitors were not allowed, they noticed the animalswere lethargic—they were depressed because no one was visiting. So the workershad to put on their khaki uniforms and bring their family members through on“tours” to cheer up the animals.
7. Eat by Lantern-Light
A group of us had a scrumptious lunch at the Brown Lantern (thanksfor joining us, Mr. Mayor!) My favorite thing about the Brown Lantern? Theyclearly understand what the “B” in BLT stands for! Yum! That was theMayor’s dish, but I stole a picture (okay, and a piece of bacon!) My VooDoo Shrimpwas perfectly seasoned, lightly breaded, and fried to perfection. Being a wimp,I asked for their VooDoo sauce on the side, and light dips were all it neededto tantalize my taste buds!
Opensince 1977, the Lantern is downtown. Which means it closes on weekends. Planaccordingly. You don’t want to miss out!
8. Learn to Dive bythe River
It turns out that this area has THE. BEST.CAVES. In the world!! Who knew? I talked with cave divers from all over theworld who come to Suwannee County to cave dive! Florida has more than 1,000springs—more than anywhere else in the world. And 46 of those are in SuwanneeCounty! Some are only accessible by water (I’ve been in a few of those!) andsome are on private property; you can own your own spring—how cool is that? Lotsof them also have caves. One of the longest underwater cave systems in theUnited States is Peacock Springs—right here in Suwannee County!
And Georges Gawinowski is one of the bestcave diving instructors around! He was on a cave-diving expedition in Mexicofrom his home in France when someone said, “Man, you need to go to Florida!” Hedid, and the rest of the story is that he and his wife moved to Suwannee Countystarted a cave diving school, WDT Dive Scuba DivingSchool. When students neededa break from long days of diving, he adopted a rescue horse and trained it forriding. The students, or their family members who stayed behind each day,started to ride. Soon Georges needed another horse, then two!
The DiveOutpost in Live Oak isanother place to learn cave diving or just pick up supplies. The Outpost has afill station, cabins, dorms, campgrounds, and access to springs. There are sixsprings less than 8 miles from the dive shop. And two other springs in a30-minute drive.
9. The Bells Are Ringing
The First United Methodist Church wasestablished in 1865; they built this building in 1928, with beautiful gothicstained-glass windows. They installed organ pipes from the original church’sorgan and laid the foundation from stones taken from the original church. Thechurch bell was placed in the memory of Wallace W. McCormick by his family. Thebeautiful inscription on the plaque says, “May your people hasten to yourchurch when they hear the call of this bell.”
10. Restaurant, Bar &Music on the Deck
The Dowling House was built in 1904. The Greek Revival house’s massive columns support a wrap-around porch. Today the renovated house is home to The 406 and a bar with live music on the main floor. There is a more laid-back prohibition-style cigar bar upstairs. Renovations wrapped up in time for New Year’s Eve!
11. Escape to the Past
Have you ever seen an Amish buggy andwondered what it would be like to have lived in a simpler time? At the Dragonfly Ranch, you can find out! Owner Georges will prepare apicnic lunch and drive up to three people to Charles Springs in a comfortablebuggy. The trip takes about 2 hours; then, you stop for lunch before returningto the ranch.
Or you can go horseback riding on trail ridesdesigned for various levels of skill. There is a beginner’s 30-minute ride.Advanced riders can enjoy a 1.5, 2, 2.5, or a 6-hour ride on the Suwannee Rivertrails, the Christian Tract (338 acres of woods along the Suwannee), or theall-day Charles Springs ride, which includes lunch.
Georges is a natural tour guide entertainingand educational (with an endearing French accent) and will tell stories aboutthe Suwannee River area, springs, and sinkholes. Be sure to tell him hello forme!
Oh, and if you’d like to take your horse andstay nearby, all you need to do is ask. Georges will make it happen.
12. Pack Your Hiking Boots For a River Hike
TheNature Trails at Suwannee River State Park offer paths of varying lengths.You only have to decide how many miles you have in you on any given day!Wildlife such as white-tailed deer, turkey, fox, and gopher tortoise are frequentlyspotted as you hike by sinks, streams, springs, limestone outcroppings, and theriver. There is also the Branford Greenway in Branford. It is partof Florida’s rail trail.
TheFlorida Trailleads you underneath the Graffiti Bridge (the Suwannee Springs Bridge) and beside the Suwannee River. Park at the bridgeand walk across to start your hike.
You can also walk the Heritage Trail in Live Oak. It is part of Suwannee Parks and Recreation.
13. Visit Spirit of the Suwannee Music Park’s Chapel and GrandeHall
Destination weddings. You hear the term moreand more. People want to say “I do” in a beautiful place, stay in a beautifulplace, have a beautiful wedding—and have it all arranged by someone else! The Grande Halloverlooks the Suwannee River and is the ideal place for the reception.
14. Blue Water
Beautiful blue-green springs, so clear youcan see your toes. And I don’t mean just one spring either! Suwannee has 46 of these hidden gemswithin the county. Peacock, Royal, Little River, Charles, Cow, Branford,Falmouth, Anderson, and Suwannee. WOW! What a richly-blessed area this is.Bring a bathing suit and towel; you’re going to want to get wet! Many of thesprings have port-a-potties, but few have bathhouses.
15. Stay for a Night—ormore!
Want to stay in a rustic cabin? A modernmotel? An RV resort? (in their cabin or your camper…or even a treehouse!) The Spirit of the Suwannee Music Park (SOS) isn’t just an entertainment venue. It isalso a fantastic resort, with 800 acres and over 1,000 improved campsites andthe capacity to handle 40’ and longer RVs. And you can bring your horse! Thepark has horse camping available, with paddock sites or stalls. Non-campers canpay a day-use trail fee. The park has 4 miles of trails for you to enjoy andaccess to another 50 miles of trails. You can ride along the banks of theSuwannee or explore eight ecosystems within the park.
The friendly folks at SOS can arrange foryour needs during your stay; a canoe or kayak so you can paddle the SuwanneeRiver Wilderness Trail; a tour; an art class.
Attend a music event at SOS. You will enjoythat concert in the amphitheater shaded by a canopy of oaks. A list of artistswho have performed at SOS includes Tim McGraw, Alan Jackson, James Brown, andThe Allman Brothers. There are several stages throughout the park and an indoorMusic Hall.
The park’s Christmas Lights display is not to be missed. There are walkable parts, driveable parts, and even an animated band playing with no breaks!
Oh, and if you are into geocaching…well,never mind. I’ve probably already said too much!
16. Graffiti Bridge
The Suwannee Springs Bridge, built in 1931, has been abandoned for over 50years. It has become known as The Bridge to Nowhere and a canvas for graffiti.The bridge spans 160 feet over the river and is open for foot and bike traffic.The bridge leads to the Florida Trail, and it will take you down by the riverand underneath the bridge.
Makea quick detour to see this bridge. I did, and I met two guys, friends for 50years. A friendship that has stood the test of time, they were there recreatinga photo taken in the same place 40 years ago. The spot is markedwhere a proposal took place—she said “Yes!”
17. Climb Your Family Tree
The SuwanneeValley Genealogy Society wasformed in 1992 to discover and preserve the region’s heritage and the area’speople. The research available includes eight Natural North Florida countiesplus most other states and several European countries. The library is free forSVGS members; non-members can pay $10 a day to use the resources.
18. South of the BorderTaste
The newest spot to eat in Live Oak justhappened to open the week I visited. (Wasn’t that nice of them!) LatinFlavor Café Fl servesthree meals a day and has American- and Latin-style sandwiches, wings, shakes,salads, vegetable juices, and bakery items. Tell Rosemary I sent ya! If you’reon the run, empanadas make great hand-held food for the road. And for goodnesssake, get a guava & cheese pastelitos!
19. Cycle the River Trails
The Suwannee Bicycle Association has a plan—whether you want to pedal, paddle,or play! The SBA was formed over 25 years ago to promote awareness and usage ofthe Suwannee River Valley. They publish cycling maps with QR codes; pick oneup! There are ten mapped routes on 270 miles of low-traffic country roads. Youcan’t beat the scenery in the Suwannee Valley. The SBA has also put togetherone-day or even multi-day paddle trips. The SBA sponsors events nearly everymonth and away trips. You may want to apply for membership.
20. State Parks in theCounty
The 1,800-acre SuwanneeRiver State Park isfound where the Withlacoochee River and the Suwannee River join forces. Thereis an overlook with a panoramic view of both rivers as they flow together. Thepark has a boat ramp, fishing locations, campsites for either tent or RVcamping, restrooms, showers, and five full-service cabins.
The park has nature trails that take you bysinks, streams, springs, limestone outcroppings, and the river. Wildlife isfound in abundance.
Asecond state park is the Wes Skiles Peacock Springs State Park. Wes was afamous cave diver who passed away a few years ago. Peacock Springs State Parkamended its name to honor him. His daughter is a free diver. Her fiancée wantedher dad to “be there,” so last year he proposed underwater at Peacock. AsCharissa says, *I’m not crying.*
21. BBQ – It’s a SouthernThing!
Yes, southerners love their BBQ. We’ll BBQanything that stands still! Big Woods BBQ in Live Oak served me some top-notch pulledpork, dry-rubbed and dipped in their house-made sauce. Dished up beside theirsignature BBQ beans, mashed and Texas Toast, with my glass of Pinot, and I wasa happy girl!
22. Way Down Upon theSuwannee River…
You know Stephen Foster’s song. Now visit theriver that bears the name and the bridge with lyrics from the song. The sunsets over the Hal W Adams bridge, and with good clouds, it makes abeautiful sight—that blue suspension bridge and pink sky. On your way togetting this shot, you will pass through Luraville. Go ahead and stop for a dogat the Luraville Country Store. But eat it with a fork. You’re welcome!
23. Lunch with Locals
The Dixie Grill hasbeen a Live Oak fixture since 1959! Charles and Myra Thomas bought the place in1984 and haven’t slowed down. Son Robbie is known as Chef Boy RT—you know, likeChef Boy-ar-dee *smile* and is now putting his spin on the dishes with what hecalls New South cuisine. Let me tell you—it works! Much of the produce comesfresh from the local farms (try the fried green tomatoes!) But save room for pie!You’re forewarned (and the cooler of pies by the front door doesn’t hurt as areminder!) And get there early, or you will be waiting for a table.
24. Famous House
Thereis a famous house in Live Oak. No, I’m not talking about the historic downtown houses(although there are plenty of those!) I’m talking about a house that was builton television! Yep. If you’re a fan of the program Treehouse Masters,you’ll be interested to learn that they came and built a treehouse on the riverat Spirit of the Suwannee! It is amazing! It isn’t rented out (yet!) but myname is on that list!
25. Visit Suwannee Springs
Natural NorthFlorida is all about rivers and springs. But did you realize that SuwanneeSprings was one of Florida’s first tourist destinations? The originalspringhouse was probably built before the Civil War. The “healing waters” wererumored to cure anything that ailed you, from gout to marital discord! Up untilthe 1920s the site had hotels, a bath house, and private cottages. There waseven a private spur on the rail line! When the last hotel burned in 1925, theproperty was left to return to nature. But you can still imagine the hushedvoices in the walls of the springhouse if you listen closely. Or, maybe it isjust the gurgle of the river. I’ll let you decide.
26. Go for the Cheese
I’m still dreamingof the Garlic Knots from the ItalianPizzeria in Live Oak. And that pizza! Three of us shared it, and sentnearly half home with Jimmy Norris, Director of Economic Development. Thecheese alone would fill up a normal person! We arrived starving after a daychasing springs, and jumped at the first thing we saw—pizza!! Too late I learnabout their Stuffed Meat Pizza—five kinds of meat covered on both sideswith a thin crust, like…pizza meets quesadilla! I’ll be baaaaack!
27. Join in the Festivities
You already know Natural North Florida is all about thefestivals! But Suwannee County takes it to a whole ’nother level! I mean, thesepeople can par-ty!!
Christmas on theSquare’s ribbon-cutting was on Thursday night before the first weekend inDecember. It was the 37th year for the event! The festivities begin with thetree lighting, a Fun Run, and live entertainment. The next evening there is adowntown-wide arts and crafts show, live entertainment, fireworks, Santa Land,and Snow! 30 tons of the white stuff! Saturday, the events continue from 8 amuntil 4 pm, and a car and truck show is added. At 4, everyone rushes to clearthe streets for the Grand Finale—the 6 pm Lighted Christmas Parade!
28. Snow on theSquare
But, let me tellyou about Snow on the Square. This town closes the streets for two wholedays to make room for vendors (over 200) and food trucks. Oh, andsnow. Yes…snow…in Florida. There is a huge pile just for the little kids (andCharissa).
Then there is the sledding hill. An entire block is devoted to a three-lane-wide hill of snow. There was a line starting before 5 pm, and it was still a line after 8 pm. Charissa, Marshall from the Busy Bee, and I had to ensure it was in proper working order, so we made a couple of test runs. Snow on the Square is a fantastic community effort to provide a snow experience for every child in Live Oak and Suwannee County. Three years ago, when someone suggested charging $2 per child, it was Marcell who said, “No, absolutely not. If that charge keeps just one child from enjoying the snow, we have failed.” He then pledged that the Busy Bee would sponsor the snow that year and every year since. That is the kind of community you find in Suwannee County. That is the Live Oak spirit.
And Santa! Theofficial Coca-Cola Santa arrives in a light-up semi just after dark. The wholetown turned out for this! Being the town’s writer for the event, I got to siton his lap first—I know, it’s a tough job! *smile* The crowd was patient asthey watched the set-up for the children (every child got a toy!) If you wantto recover your childhood Christmas spirit, you need to be in Live Oak inDecember!
The evening wrapsup with a fireworks display that would put July 4th to shame! Oh, my goodness!They were scheduled to start at 9 pm, but true to form, Marshall just couldn’twait. The biggest kid in Suwannee County shot off the first burst at 8:55! Andthe displays continued, not one at a time spaced out like most places, but two,three, or four at once, and continued for more than 20 minutes!
29. Other Festivals
Iknow—I’m reeling at all that festival offers, and yet, there’s more! I warnedyou, this place is party central! During the year there are festivals at SOSand in the community; like:
- Suwannee Roots Revival Music Festival
- Suwannee Hulaween – biggest festival of the year—people comefrom other countries!
- Old Tyme Farm Days
- Wedding Expo
- Suwannee Spring Reunion – bluegrass and stringmusic
- Suwannee Rising – music festival
- Suwannee River Jam – country music and campingfestival
- Wings Over Suwannee – festival to inspire kidsto consider aviation careers
- Wellborn Blueberry Festival
- Suwannee River Riding Club Rodeo
30. Thank a Vet
Before you leave Live Oak and Suwannee County, stop downtown, and pay your respects at the Veteran’s Memorial—you can spot it by the Spearmint mural! The grounds of this block are well kept, peaceful, and respectful. There is a plaque dedicated to Live Oak’s Vietnam hero, Army pilot Captain Charley James Ford. He was a highly decorated Special Forces Green Beret.
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